Monday, November 28, 2011

Destination Reflection: Fuerte Amador and the Canal, Panama

Panama City, Canal Locomotive, Sloth, Gatun Locks (Photos by Lindsay Amanda)

For many, crossing the Panama Canal is on the bucket list. Its historical importance and ingenious engineering has designated it as one of the wonders of the world. It not only honors the development of the modern age, but also gives tribute to the many lives that were lost during the time of its construction.

The crossing began early in the morning around 5 am local time. I must admit that I was still in recovery mode from the excitement of the day before in Costa Rica and slept through the most anticipated and reportedly the most impressive first lock. I enjoyed a relaxing day in the canal and laid by the pool drifting in and out of sleep while peacefully cruising down the passage. I did spend a considerable amount of time admiring the incredibly lush vegetation that lined the Panamanian shores. I was surprised by how murky the brown water was, an earthy compliment to the trees that surrounded it.

We traveled under the Bridge of the Americas that connects Central and South Americas by transit and sailed across the continental divide. I was able to experience the third lock on our way to the pacific side, which I later viewed from an all encompassing perspective when I took a land excursion of the Gatun Lake and Locks. I did get the reminder that the world is in constant change when I found that the three original locks will eventually be replaced by two new designs. Knowing that the originals have an expiration date in my lifetime gives a special significance to the experience.

Once we cleared the canal we ported off shore near the small town of Fuerte Amador on Flamenco Island. It is only 30 miles away from Panama City, which we could see clearly from where we anchored. It was an awesome view and reminded me very much of the skyline of Chicago. I explored the small town with my ship friends, now newlyweds, but not much was going on in the local retirement community. We all regret not taking a taxi into the city, but we all could imagine how exciting it looked at night with the lights glittering from across the bay.

The excursion the next day brought us, as mentioned, to Gatun Lake and Locks. Driving through the countryside I saw the familiar fertile landscape that is so characteristic of the region. Although I loved it, it did make me sad to see the amount of trash and litter left along the sides of the roads and highways, I could not help but think that my own country would not allow such pollution to occur. The lake is actually man made, and the islands that sprung from the water were simply hilltops that previously stood tall above the ground below. We rode along the coast of the lake and although I have yet to see a monkey, I did get a glimpse of three sloths hanging idly in the trees which I was really excited for.

In reflection, I really did find this time special. I may have taken it for granted slightly as a simple path that was guiding me to my destination, but I truly appreciate the memory in full. I thank the Panamanian people for their hospitality and can say that despite living in some of the more impoverished areas, the happiness that shines on the people's faces are inspiring and uniquely memorable.

Sunday, November 27, 2011

Destination Reflection: Puerto Limon, Costa Rica

Puerto Limon, Costa Rica (Photos by LindsayAmanda)

Christopher Columbus proved that richness does not necessarily translate to consumer goods and monetary gains. He named the land "rich coast" upon an assumption that the fine gold and jade that the native people were wearing as proof of natural wealth, when in fact those materials came from outside the country's borders. Oftentimes interpretation is completely dependent on personal perception and the willingness to explore beyond the given trail. For me, Costa Rica's richness is found in its beautiful abundance of vibrant colors.

Although I traditionally do not categorize myself as an average tourist because of my passion for immersion, sometimes the cliche activities are necessary and turn out to be some of the most amazing adventures. In this case, I gained a new perspective of the canopy by zip lining through the treetops. While gearing up we could hear the famed howler monkey proclaiming his territory and even found two frogs that were radiating with color. One was as red as a burning flame and the other black and green speckled like the shadowed tropical grounds of its home.

I was excitedly anticipating zip lining as I heard that there is no better place than Costa Rica to do so. I know completely understand the truth in the statements. This particular course offered us twelve tree house type platforms to leap from, and we dove down 11 double cables. It was thrilling to fly through the trees, and although we were zooming along too fast to spot any monkeys, i felt in communion with my long tailed friends. I could not have asked for better views of the canopy from both above and within.

I had a few more hours in Puerto Limon for my love of immersion. I simply strolled around the small town taking in its atmosphere and culture. There was a great park with a huge pink and white gazebo in the middle, and palm trees lined every walkway. Each isle led to the ocean where relics of buildings stood along a rocky black beach. A group of young people were drumming freely on the sidewalk making soulful background music for passerby's.

One can judge a place well by its main streets. This is where people come together in a central familiar place, where celebrations are held and commerce commences. All of these are wonderful to see, but its in the side streets where one really feels the pulse of everyday life. Facts are given in mass quantities on tours. I learned that the country is mostly made up of my fellow Roman Catholics, but it was not until I stumbled upon a beautiful church did the meaning really settle in. I said a little prayer of thanks to God for bringing me to Costa Rica.

Looking at the town superficially, you could argue that the country is quite poor by its run down houses and scattered abandoned buildings. But the most memorable aspect of the country that I will hold in my mind is the pulsating colors that made these seemingly withered structures truly wealthy. I could feel the spirit of Costa Rica in every fiber as I finished the day with a beer on a local street corner listening to the beat of Puerto Limon's young musicians cruise on by.

Saturday, November 26, 2011

Destination Reflection: San Blas Islands, Panama

San Blas Islands, Panama (Photos by Lindsay Amanda)

Juxtaposition can be quite humbling. I was slightly surprised by our half day stop in the San Blas islands, located just a few miles off of the Caribbean cost of Panama, since it wasn't on my radar originally. The day started a bit slow, and I was resting in the room when my new ship friends, Steve and Traci, called to tell me to take a look out my window. When I did, I saw two wooden canoes with little boys in each one, begging for money then diving into the water after coins that fellow shipmates tossed overboard. It was a sight unlike any I have ever seen before.

We went to the top of the ship to see more of the surrounding scenery and found the number of native boats multiplied and the families that were in them were all calling out "mOney, mOney" from below us. The backdrop had pieces of land sprouting up from the water, most of which could not have been more than a mile long. From afar I would not have guessed that people lived on these small islands, but I soon found out that they were in fact the home of the Kuna Indians.

The tenures took us to one of the small floating masses and as we approached I realized that there were small huts with walls made from sticks and roofs of brown palms. Some were covered by scrap metal and others had simple cloth material for walls. We stepped off of the boat and instantly walked through an isle of children and families calling out the familiar "dOllar, dOllar" in hopes to sell various hand crafted goods. Everything they could offer was presented, from hand carved toy boats, to coloring pages held by toddlers, and most prominently, an array of brightly sewn tapestries called Molas, which the tribe is famed for.

The entire island was a marketplace offering variations of the same products. Children held tropical birds on their heads asking for "dOllar for picture," and an old women held a monkey for the same sell (which of course I caved to). Steve, Traci and I walked up and down each hut crevice in the village and found a native man who was happy to take us on a tour of his home. I did not see a single bed, only hammocks hanging from walls, and what he called the kitchen was nothing more than a three walled cabin filled with sticks and hanging laundry. The women wore bright colored wraps and some withered faces were ornamented with piercings and paint.

The floors were either covered in dirt or simply made of it, both inside and outside the homes. "Ocean front" property became a whole new concept, shorelines littered with trash and debris. The only signs of modern technology were the oddly placed bright red satellite dishes that were mounted between huts. You almost wonder if it is more of a spectacle than a way of living, but I know that is not the case, just a few minor luxuries in an otherwise primitive world. The Kuna Indians have survived in these islands for hundreds of years and have had only glimpses of our comparatively wealthy lifestyle through often ignorant tourists. It is a blessing to be welcomed into their wold, for as strange as it may be, these seemingly far off tribes are in fact our not so distant worldly neighbors.

Friday, November 25, 2011

Destination Reflection: Santa Marta, Colombia

Santa Marta, Colombia (Photos by Lindsay Amanda)

One of my favorite parts of traveling abroad is simply taking in the culture of the land. My trip to Colombia was an adventure that revolved around the country's people. I have experienced various standards of living on a fair spectrum, from the shanties of the third world to the wealth and prosperity of some of the top nations, including my own. Santa Marta falls in the mid to low range, but has a unique beauty that any traveler can appreciate.

We set off in the morning with the intent on visiting Tayrona National Park. Excitement brewed for a day of hiking and exploring in hopes to capture snapshots of the famed wildlife and scenic views. We drove past a substantial cluster of impoverished homes, some made of scrap metal and sheets, while others had worn down concrete walls. There were piles of trash along the road and men riding in carts pulled by donkeys for transit. Although this may be seemingly unlivable to most, I admire these people that continue to build their lives and raise their families among what some may call rubble.

We drove through the city to reach the highway to take us to the park, yet were halted and were refused to advance any further. The guide informed us that there was a protest in the city and that the road was blocked with people and police force brought in to manage the crowd. I never was able to uncover the reason for the conflict, but gathered a minimal explanation that the people living in the Colombian hills outside of the main city called upon the mayor for not addressing expressed concerns. The politics are much different, just as the lifestyle is from my own, but the experience and perspective is valued.

Reroute and adapt. We took an immersion lesson by driving into the heart of the city where out our windows we saw a somewhat familiar view of vendors of all kinds selling their goods on the streets. In a general sense of comparison it reminded me slightly of the border town of Tijuana, Mexico, mixed with the familiar Los Angeles fashion district. We were able to make a short stop in a popular square where the Basilica Santa Marta stood proudly with its bright white facade nearly shining against the colors of the surrounding buildings. I noticed a few structures' architecture that seemed to be influenced by its European roots which gave me a deeper feeling of culture.

We traveled on through the hills , down to a resort area that served as our consolation for missing the original excursion destination. The mountains seemed to be made of emeralds for as far as you could see and I found it particularly fascinating to see cactus spurting up from the ground. I never imagined I would find a plant that I have only seen in arid climates nestled in such a tropical setting. They covered the slopes for as far as the vista reached. We spent the remainder of our time at the Irotama Hotel where we watched a folkloric show featuring traditional dancers and musicians. We took moments to walk along the beach and dipped our feet into the warm murky water of the coast.

Colombia has its own charm that is unique to its strong willed residents. This particular portion of the trip reminds me that plans may change, roads may be detoured by when you open your eyes, the benefits of adapting can serve as a powerful point of view.

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Destination Reflection: Half Moon Cay, Bahamas

Half Moon Cay, Bahamas (Photo by Stephen Brown)

A true vacation is a retreat. A period of sustained isolation from the madness of life. It is my first time in almost two years that I have ventured beyond national borders, far too long to be separated from my love of world exploration.

We departed Fort Lauderdale's Everglades Port on the Rotterdam Ship of Holland America Cruise lines in the evening. I could not help but think of my father who grew up in the Dutch down that the vessel commemorates. Bad wife and daughter! We left him not only for the all-American holiday of Thanksgiving as well as his birthday. We will miss him greatly, and I know he shares my dream of visiting Machu Picchu in the mountains of Peru, a destination that will serve as our grand finale.

Our first stop was Half Moon Cay, although the familiarized seem to pronounce it "key," which is a private resort owned by the cruise line on Little San Salvador Island. It is located less than 100 miles southeast of the popular city of Nassau, between Cat Island and Eleuthera. I found that it looked almost exactly like the hundreds of pictures of the Bahamas. It was as if I landed in the middle of a Corona commercial when I saw the powder white sands and turquoise blue water, our country's staple image of paradise. The island itself was tiny, yet ideal for our one day excursion ashore. Small enough to feel secluded, while not giving off the sometimes overwhelming feeling of rushing to see everything possible in a limited time frame.

One of my goals for the trip was fulfilled early when I visited the stables to go horseback riding by land and sea. My land horse was named Mutt, he was a beautifully gentle, dark brown steed
that seemed to like his hooves in the water as we rode along the shore. We trotted to the highest point on the island, which could not have been more than 50 feet or so, that gave us a nice view of the resort. After changing our horses for a water adventure, we galloped through the crystal ocean so that only the arch of their back and heads were above water. I was immersed from the waist down as we splashed along in unison, with the lush tropics of palms on one side and the ocean as far as you could see on the other.

Although we had two land events booked, unfortunately the second, snorkeling by boat, was cancelled because the tide was a bit rough to manage. You could not tell by the weather though, it was everything you would imagine for a trip to the isles, around 75 degrees, clear blue skies with the fluffy accent of a few scattered clouds on the horizon. Our ship was a perfect backdrop to the scenery, sitting like an ornament on the sea. Although it would have been great to explore beneath the surface, I was not all that upset since I got my ride in, rested on the beach, swam in the gorgeous water and truly spent my time exactly as I had imagined it, retreating from the world.